tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10389639126317396762024-03-13T02:47:27.198+01:00Caffenol<b>Dedicated to the power of Caffenol and Caffenol-C film developer made of: <br><br>instant coffee, washing soda and vitamin-C.<br><br>Competes with the best developers available
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<br>
This developer deserves more attention.
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<br>
Time for a cup of coffee....</b>
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Ifyou are new to Caffenol development or looking for the basics, please start from the beginning, first post March 2010imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.comBlogger74125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-24965762639963961702016-08-26T00:09:00.000+02:002017-04-28T09:35:06.966+02:00APX new emulsion 2<br />
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Now let's have a look at the Agfaphoto APX 100 new emulsion. Again an OEM film by Ilford, similar but also different from the Kentmere/RPX bothers. Biggest difference is that this one needs much less development like the others. E.g. the Kentmere in Rodinal 1:50 needs about 16 - 17 minutes for boxspeed, the APX only 10 minutes.</div>
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And so it is with Caffenol-C. 10 minutes at 20 °C in Caffenol-C-M (rs) are enough, and here I stand developed 20 minutes at 25 °C in Caffenol-C-L with 0.5 g/l pot. bromide, both for boxspeed. A nice, sharp and reasonable fine grained classic bw film, easy to handle with the only disavantage of a slightly sub-optimal halo protection like <u>all</u> Ilford OEM films.<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Update: it looks like the APXn and Kentmere 100 are identical. Also I couldn`t see a difference between RPX 400 and APX/Kentmere 400 anymore, it seems Ilford didn`t want a RPX to be better than a Kentmere. I can't see why I should buy a more expensive RPX 400 anymore.</span></div>
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<span id="goog_819551325"></span><span id="goog_819551326"></span>imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-6798470232392423502016-08-22T18:48:00.000+02:002017-04-28T09:37:09.881+02:00APX new emulsion<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hello coffeeholics,</div>
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the distributor Agfaphoto had launched 2 new films after the broke of Agfa Leverkusen and the deep-frozen stock of old APX was sold out. The APX 100 and 400 "new emulsion" have nothing to do anymore with the old Agfa APX, are made by Ilford and are close relatives to the Kentmere films, but must not be 100 % identical. Ilford is producing a lot of OEM stuff nowadays and they all remind at the Kentmere films somehow. Especially the less than optimal halo protection is a common feature though it doesn't disturb under most conditions. </div>
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Here is my first impression of the APX 400 new. Maybe it's the same as the Kentmere 400, surely different from the RPX 400, who is the best of them all imo after a somehow inconsistent history. But that's another story, already told here, see the older posts concerning the RPX 400.<br />
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<br />
<span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Update:
all APXn and Kentmere are identical. Also I couldn`t
see a difference between RPX 400 and APX/Kentmere 400 anymore, it seems
Ilford didn`t want a RPX to be better than a Kentmere. I can't see why I
should buy a more expensive RPX 400 anymore.</span></div>
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I never liked the Kentmere 400, quite big grain and very push resistant, and the new APX 400 behaves like his brother. But it has the big advantage to be easily available here at big drugstores like Muller. Because I had agreed a short dated shooting in a small coffee roastery and no time to order new fast film, I decided to give the APX 400 new a chance. First trials with small snippets showed that not more than ISO 400 is makeable and the grain was - let's say - very visible and nice. Furthermore I decided this to be a feature and not a bug and live with the grain. So, if you want a film with nice big and sharp grain, here it is, developed in coffee.</div>
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The films were exposed at EI 400 with a Minolta X-500 and 2.8/28 and 1.4/58 Rokkor lenses. Developed in Caffenol-C-H (rs) with 1 g/l pot. bromide, 13 minutes at 25 °C which is about the same as 20 minutes at 20 °C, agitation first minute continuously, then 3x every 30 seconds. Because the film tends to give a lower contrast, this agitation sceme was used. </div>
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Here are some results from the shooting, scanned with a dslr, macro gear and at 20 MP resolution. White point and black point were set and some contrast curve adjustments made. No sharpening at all in pp.</div>
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As always, right click on the pics to open in a new tab to see the biggest available size.<br />
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The whole set can be seen here at full resolution:<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/imagesfrugales/albums/72157672798582715" target="_blank">roastery at flickr</a><br />
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Happy developings - Reinhold</div>
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<span id="goog_1191943872"></span><span id="goog_1191943873"></span><br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-11382621181462680722015-05-07T09:20:00.000+02:002016-08-22T18:59:03.982+02:00Caffenol C-M and C-H (RS/RSA)<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hello coffee (ab)users, </div>
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I'm very happy to present Eiriks report about his reduced soda/ascorbic-acid versions. Have a nice reading, and I recommend visiting his sites linked below. He's a great photographer and a very nice guy. Thank you so much, Eirik.</div>
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Happy developings - Reinhold<br />
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<br />
That's what Eirik wrote:</div>
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</div>
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<br />
<span lang="en-US">I
promised Reinhold a long time ago I would write an article on the
(RS) and (RSA) versions of his recipes.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="en-US">Like
many others, when I started out with Caffenol I perused the net for
tips on where to start. I concluded pretty early on that these 8tsp
of this, a pinch of that, and a cup of other recipes, were not going
to cut it for me. Reinhold’s precise and predictable recipes
however were exactly what I was looking for. In addition to reading
everything on his blog, I joined a Caffenol group on Flickr, and a
long ongoing thread on the Scandinavian APUG forum to discuss and
share experiences.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="en-US">I
like to be accurate in my work, but I am also lazy. So I soon tried
out premixing Caffenol, instead of having to dissolve powders and mix
them up for every development. My approach was to dissolve the
ingredients in larger quantities and store them in light and airtight
bottles. Then mix them, one third each, when developing. For this to
work, each solution had to be 3 times the prescribed strength. And it
worked well. The ingredients did not go off as quickly as some had
thought. The coffee started to develop mold at 8-12 weeks, and the
ascorbic acid oxidized gradually to be useless after 15-20 weeks. The
soda kept forever, but was susceptible to crystalising in my storage
space in the basement in cold weather. Evidently this was due to the
combination of higher concentration and low temperature. In warm
weather the soda was stabile. </span>
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<span lang="en-US">The
first time the soda crystalised, I was unaware of it. Some of the
soda had formed a solid block at the bottom of the flask. I mixed as
usual, and developed a roll of TMX. And it came out gloriously!
Caffenol is a compensating developer, and I had been accustomed to it
helping me bring back highlights and draw out shadow detail, but this
was something else. The compensating effect seemed enhanced, and the
tonal gradation, definition and micro contrast was discernably better
than I was used too. I knew something was not quite as it should be.
Having checked with said forums I was tipped that the soda may have
something to do with it. Having identified the culprit I went about
testing levels of soda to approximate the serendipitous TMX roll.
After a bit of trial and error I ended up with a recipe where the
only difference being lowering the level of soda (or sodium carbonate
if you will) to 40g/l (from 54g/l). Technically this will result in a
lower pH and a less active developer. Developing times may therefore
need adjusting. I however found that this was not necessary. But then
again, I tend not to do push development. My variations over
Reinhold’s recipes are more tuned to regular box speed developing.
Of course, should you want to push, by all means, but then you may
want to add a few minutes to the timing, as compared to most of my
efforts that is. Since this discovery, it became my staple developer
for several years, and worked fine on films such as Kodak TMX, TMY2,
Tri-X, Plus-X, Double-X and BW400CN, Fuji Acros (my favourite) and
Neopan 400, Efke R25 and KB/R 100, Era 100, Rollei Retro 400s, Agfa
APX 100/400, Ilford PanF and Delta 400, PolyPan F and several others
I forget.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="en-US">Like
Reinhold, I like a definition to have a particular meaning. The name
should refer to a specific recipe. I therefore set about naming the
recipes. I wanted to coin mine much like Reinhold has his, and it
felt only natural the names should reflect that they were indeed
variations over his well-known Caffenol-C-M and H.</span></div>
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</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="en-US">So
Caffenol-C-M(RS) is just a Reduced Soda version of C-M. Same applies
to C-H. I also experimented lowering the ascorbic acid level to 10g/l
(from 16g/l), and saw little or no effect. But I found little reason
to continue with it, introducing yet a variable. This variation
gained the postfix (RSA).</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="en-US">I
lay no claim to have invented anything, I know of several others who
have come to similar conclusions by other means. Indeed, a couple of
my co-authors of the Caffenol Cookbook have their own versions of
lower pH Caffenol-C mixtures, which work in much the same way.</span></div>
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<span lang="en-US">The
TMX roll that started it all? Here are a few examples. </span>
</div>
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<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
<span lang="en-US">My
caffenol flickr album: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/sets/72157625081279605/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/sets/72157625081279605/</a></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
<span lang="en-US">My
Caffenol and DIY blog: <a href="http://on-your-kitchen-worktop.blogspot.no/" target="_blank">http://on-your-kitchen-worktop.blogspot.no/</a></span></div>
<div lang="en-US" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
<span lang="en-US">Caffenol
Cookbook: </span><span lang="en-US"><a href="http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/">http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/</a></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
<span lang="en-US">Best
of luck</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
<span lang="en-US">Eirik
Russell Roberts</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
<span lang="en-US"></span></div>
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<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-46760919729873764372015-01-04T21:08:00.005+01:002015-01-04T23:33:44.566+01:00densitometry<div style="text-align: justify;">
Inspired by a discussion on a german board I made a new test with the Kodak Technical Pan in Caffenol-C-L, compared with older results of Rodinal. The film was exposed @ EI 25, developed in Caffenol-C-L with 0.1 g/l pot. bromide, 11 minutes 20°C, constant agitation for the first 30 seconds, then 3 turns every minute. </div>
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No presoak here. I recommend using destilled or demin. water, the thin emulsion is very sensitive for spots. Check if your fixer is clean! And make a clearing test, fix for double clearing time, not longer, you can overfix these films quite easy. Here I fixed for 1 minute total with my regular strength fixer. Development was perfectly even, so I guess there is no need at all to use pot. bromide and maybe get a little bit more speed. After development I made 3 intermediate rinses (tap water this time) with shaky agitation to reduce possible spots. The final rinse was again made with demin water and the film carefully wiped with a V-folded paper tissue.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
As you can see, the real speed is like ISO 20, with both developers Rodinal and C-C-L. But the red Rodinal curve is more contrasty. The blue C-C-L curve is better suitable for wet prints. Quite a nice result for a film that is said to be very difficult to handle, isn't it?</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
On my walk to do the test shots I met 4 young photographers and they were eager models for the test. Thank you very much, guys. I exposed @ EI 25, short before dawn I shot with 1/30 and f/1.4.</div>
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Happy developings - Reinhold</div>
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<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-62594852029516088962014-12-12T18:41:00.001+01:002014-12-13T19:14:21.923+01:00arabica coffee or not<div style="text-align: justify;">
We recently had a discussion at Apug if pure arabica coffee without Vit-C would do any development, one guy reported that he had no development at all with arabica coffee. We can read at different places that the cheap and awful robusta would be the best for developing film and arabica would be worse, but no development at all? Furthermore, I didn't have single report here on my blog of any failure caused by arabica coffee. Au contraire, people told me that they used 100% arabica "premium" instant coffee, because it was at hand, and got excellent results. I also made such an experiment and could confirm, that pure arabica coffee was not worse than any other I tried so far. But I made the test with Caffenol-C. Now I decided to make a side by side comparison of 100 % arabica and the cheapest instant coffee available here without Vit-C, to get the results from coffee with washing soda alone. To make it worse, I used <b>decaffeinated(!</b>) arabica. Both samples were developed at the same time side by side. To make a simple story simple: <b>I can't distinguish both! They look exactly the same, </b>even held against a lamp for better judgement: identical blackening. To be honest, I wasn't surprised very much.<b> But of course using a more expensive coffee is a waiste of money.</b><br />
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PS: my old flickr buddy Larry aka inetjoker just said that he only once had a failure with caffenol, and it was a deacidified coffee. Again no big surprise, caffeic acid is regarded as the main developing agent of coffee. Thank you so much, Larry for all your help and simply for being around always.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpGoooscS9njTaSFFmf8rsWMltfLb_zQRe29CFur78X_9CL-9sn9CEfm8OZdImUAIR59pvcvn-IAF0kmsFpyGS09XdX78uEhNPSdPmE4oudTycYKvkWsLw_zPhFnPq5cc8rTXwzWVQj78/s1600/arabica+or+not+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpGoooscS9njTaSFFmf8rsWMltfLb_zQRe29CFur78X_9CL-9sn9CEfm8OZdImUAIR59pvcvn-IAF0kmsFpyGS09XdX78uEhNPSdPmE4oudTycYKvkWsLw_zPhFnPq5cc8rTXwzWVQj78/s1600/arabica+or+not+2.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Both developments were made with snippets of Polylan F, I cut off 1 edge for the arabica developement and 2 edges for the "cheap" development for further reference. The recipe for both was:</div>
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40 g/l instant coffee and 40 g/l washing soda waterfree, that's it. pH was about 9.9 for both. Fixing and rinsing as usual.</div>
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Stand developed 60 minutes at room temp with some stirring every 10 minutes or so. That was a quick and dirty test, everybody can repeat it with a minimum effort.<b></b></div>
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See you guys, happy developings</div>
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Reinhold</div>
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<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-5835390074935503172014-12-07T14:36:00.001+01:002014-12-07T14:46:46.816+01:00the new old RPX 400<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi coffee users and abusers,</div>
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good news about film and Caffenol. The "original" Rollei RPX 400 is back!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcX_MxGdO4B7sk6PQsplxWpulocvL_2JXmqjIr0DN5xOgwq7Bzcyo49XkQuvx_C557M4Rnth42ikO6reor-MG6oubazzrxXmlOiGGB8ZVMG9I48mAuIJrKWZ8N4Xb-Hj2f-Xy2FmxMh1g/s1600/wm-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcX_MxGdO4B7sk6PQsplxWpulocvL_2JXmqjIr0DN5xOgwq7Bzcyo49XkQuvx_C557M4Rnth42ikO6reor-MG6oubazzrxXmlOiGGB8ZVMG9I48mAuIJrKWZ8N4Xb-Hj2f-Xy2FmxMh1g/s1600/wm-08.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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The RPX 400 from the very first production was a great film with good pushing behaviour and nice grain. Then the emulsion was changed obviously without any announcement. I couldn't see any difference to the Kentmere 400 now, and I never liked this film. </div>
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Here is my original post on the RPX 400 with an update adressing that point:</div>
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<a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.de/2011/03/new-film-rollei-rpx-400.html" target="_blank">http://caffenol.blogspot.de/2011/03/new-film-rollei-rpx-400.html</a></div>
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Many people, incuding me, complained about this inaceptable behaviour. After the new package design was launched recently the emulsion obviously changed again, now showing again all the great features of the first batch. Obviously our lament was successful. Shadow detail is splendid, even with extremely contrasty subjects. EI 1600 is possible. The RPX 400 needs a powerful development to show his best side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkkZwAhsq5SpQGqv9rA5VIogzwGwGBT4u3zLFEj_QF39F4DYMuFxvHAXRzI-WdQ3OaHikVabw06VlWFWz8-LFqpLBg2tXWN7ATH0o2-_3VHsxqz3l8tNuSt1XcqP9Rp4PCbh5G14b7bDs/s1600/wm-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkkZwAhsq5SpQGqv9rA5VIogzwGwGBT4u3zLFEj_QF39F4DYMuFxvHAXRzI-WdQ3OaHikVabw06VlWFWz8-LFqpLBg2tXWN7ATH0o2-_3VHsxqz3l8tNuSt1XcqP9Rp4PCbh5G14b7bDs/s1600/wm-06.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>I used exactly the same development as before: 5 minutes presoak, Caffenol-C-L with 1.2 g/l pot. bromide, 80 minutes at 24 °C stand development with constant agitation only for the first minute. And I got the same great results as almost 4 years earlier. EI was 800, all shots done with a Dynax 5 (Maxxum 5) in multi-segment metering mode with aperture priority at f/4, no manual exposure compensation. The subject contrast was big to huge up to more than 10 stops! Only very small adjustments were made in postproduction. Shadow detail was so splendid that I had to darken them a bit.</div>
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Credits go to a friendly guy who sent me 2 films for this test. Thank you very much! And thanks to the 2 charming girls who let me take the picture.</div>
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Best - Reinhold </div>
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<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-37021645792440618052014-02-20T18:02:00.002+01:002014-02-20T18:02:45.895+01:00Rezepte<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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for my german friends... Don't worry, this blog stays in englisch language. This post is an exeption.<br />
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Das Bild kann wie alles von mir ohne weitere Nachfrage nichtkommerziell frei benutzt werden. Klick ins Bild für eine größere Darstellung.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5BVnR49qA7wV7McXVBy0enNGNXlt3i9ZAja6qXyw6S3C1mc3ZAfSbkePzdbfWLeWifFIhc_Fzlvsj-7vAMtH43_8LkRFPWt3q3nDfYV4Mx7_xDX5AynuL-jahCK8dFn4vwSQQP5P-AY/s1600/Caffenol-Rezepte.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5BVnR49qA7wV7McXVBy0enNGNXlt3i9ZAja6qXyw6S3C1mc3ZAfSbkePzdbfWLeWifFIhc_Fzlvsj-7vAMtH43_8LkRFPWt3q3nDfYV4Mx7_xDX5AynuL-jahCK8dFn4vwSQQP5P-AY/s1600/Caffenol-Rezepte.jpg" height="320" width="225" /></a></div>
Viele Grüße - Reinholdimagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-90863750692987524562014-01-02T17:53:00.000+01:002014-01-02T17:53:32.180+01:00How to avoid spotsOften it's not easy to get clean negatives without spots, drying marks etc. Fernando e.g. asked what he can do to get rid of these spots. Instead of a reply as a comment here my thoughts about avoiding spots with all kinds of films:<br />
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Hi Fernando, the thin emulsions of microfilms show every fault unmercifully. No, I don't filter the mix, but I found that using destilled water for the developer is neccessary for microfilms no matter which developer you use. And the fixer can make problems. I sometimes had masses of white spots with most films and after trying a lot there was no other explanation left that the fixer had to be blamed. Now I use a more than 30 years old Agefix (no joke!) and have the cleanest negs ever. When the bottle is empty I will buy only premium branded fixer and nothing else. And again, use destilled water for the fixer! I had 2 different but cheap fixers causing many problems.<br /><br />Rinsing I do with tap water, the final one again with destilled water that got a dash of dish soap. Put the film completely in this bath, then hang to dry and pour the bath with the dish soap over the film on both sides. No wiping. imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-8754183593634594932014-01-01T21:34:00.000+01:002014-01-02T10:46:32.552+01:00happy new year<div style="text-align: justify;">
Happy new year 2014 everybody.</div>
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Medium format quality with slow technical (micro) 35mm films and Caffenol-C as a great and cheap developer compared to the dedicated and expensive soups? Yes, why not? The results are first class using a proven recipe and adjusted dev times. Using really fine resolving zoom lenses at bright sunshine make it possible to get great results even handheld, of course fast prime lenses are first choice for every subject.</div>
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There are also films from fresh production as Rollei ATO, Rollei Ortho 25, Rollei ATP, Agfa Copex Rapid, and of course the new Kentmere/RPX 25. The latter are not technical films and will probably need some more minutes dev time.</div>
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Another sample from the excellent Kodak Technical Pan, developed 12
minutes at 20 °C in Caffenol-C-L with 0.1 g/l pot. bromide, regular
agitation, means first 60 seconds continuously, thereafter 3x every
minute. Excellent tonal range even at heavy backlight.</div>
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Love and peace - Reinhold</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0N8SiPJocXWbomEn2LR2WiIxuspf3SP5Offnz2QqP25DRSzcRIjNeroHwEsi7GJ3geOeE_I5Dq5IZzS7JJV1PMRLmQjnsT3Mt0eOe7vyZwYoecTas6ZAJimnSeSGt5OKQW1j14QS5Nmo/s1600/techpan-ccl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0N8SiPJocXWbomEn2LR2WiIxuspf3SP5Offnz2QqP25DRSzcRIjNeroHwEsi7GJ3geOeE_I5Dq5IZzS7JJV1PMRLmQjnsT3Mt0eOe7vyZwYoecTas6ZAJimnSeSGt5OKQW1j14QS5Nmo/s400/techpan-ccl.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-89185578993503993242013-06-10T16:54:00.000+02:002013-06-10T16:55:08.290+02:00Announcement<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1038963912631739676" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> Hello Coffeeholics!<br />
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Since the disastrous change at flickr many of my friends left the site and moved elsewhere, and so did I. You can see us here now:<br />
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/" target="_blank">ipernity</a></div>
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The new Caffenol group and my own account are shown in the linklist. </div>
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Don't look back - Reinhold<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZSqU-nck19afxMEZG9U4B4CoZYX-RDvLe2WuXj0_UOmolbu9fxIFhfIgSJtqtjnc6vf3p3RQJz0K0RXw-ALa7wE-QcNhQE2sB_vrn7Sy01nR39FdgGDxCq6nzZhGviengKGgYjSubWYA/s1600/Bild18a-if.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZSqU-nck19afxMEZG9U4B4CoZYX-RDvLe2WuXj0_UOmolbu9fxIFhfIgSJtqtjnc6vf3p3RQJz0K0RXw-ALa7wE-QcNhQE2sB_vrn7Sy01nR39FdgGDxCq6nzZhGviengKGgYjSubWYA/s400/Bild18a-if.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agfa Copex Rapid 35 mm film, Caffenol-C-L </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span id="goog_1512098110"></span><span id="goog_1512098111"></span></div>
imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-37155932193706281072013-05-06T09:30:00.001+02:002013-05-06T10:06:45.861+02:00more microfilms - Copex Rapid<div style="text-align: justify;">
Microfilms are a little bit delicate to process, because the extremely thin emulsions are very contrasty as they shall be regarding the original purpose. Anyhow, for pictorial use we don't need specialized and very expensive developers as some distributors want to make you believe. Simple Rodinal 1:100 or 1:200 already gives nice results. And Caffenol-C used in an adapted manner produces state-of-the-art results.</div>
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Here we talk about the Copex Rapid from Agfa Belgium. I got it in an older package as the so called "gigabitfilm", and yes, the naming imho was a serious aberration of taste and the film was sold together with an expensive and very doubious developer. That initially brought the whole category of microfilms into discredit.But enough wining about people who only want to empty your pockets. This blog is ad-free and will stay so as long as the host will allow it. Caffenol strikes again!</div>
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Caffenol-C-L is a weak or compensating developer ideal for extended stand development or for a low contrast development in some minutes. Here I used Caffenol-C-L with no restrainer (no KBr or salt) for 13 minutes/20°C, regular agitation (30 sec initially, 3x every min) and the film was exposed at EI 50. The strong backlight is a challenge for any film/developer combo and of course you need a proper exposure.I metered the foreground, added 3 stops (for the zonies: it was set to zone 2) and still have a good tonal resolution in the sky. The Copex Rapid is told to handle a contrast range of 14 stops, try that with your full format DSLR ;-) Grain is virtually not existent or not resolvable with my humble Canoscan 8800F. The density range of this negative is D = 0.2 - 1.8, so it should be printable perfectly on silver paper.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodYZl0J1Qn59FjWp1hUlUQZO1b1GoZLZK7MKkTnxSa-d58awuE58NK0lWvaBFrxlkChUloQdMRwUd00GnnSxtkYnGe2vbfsTCmqgd-tw5l-6sL-Qb5WixuxJ75ZW4C3QJd4RHbidrjgw/s1600/Bild26a-if.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodYZl0J1Qn59FjWp1hUlUQZO1b1GoZLZK7MKkTnxSa-d58awuE58NK0lWvaBFrxlkChUloQdMRwUd00GnnSxtkYnGe2vbfsTCmqgd-tw5l-6sL-Qb5WixuxJ75ZW4C3QJd4RHbidrjgw/s400/Bild26a-if.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The very thin emulsions of microfilms only need a very short fixing time, maybe less than 10 seconds, in normal strenght fixer, so you should dilute your fixer much more to get at least a fixing time of 1 minute to not overfix the negs. Make a clearing test!</div>
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Best regards - Reinhold</div>
imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-20524972917906611232013-02-05T01:25:00.002+01:002013-02-05T01:40:05.825+01:00Kodak BW400CN<div style="text-align: justify;">
Recently I shot my first roll of Kodak BW400CN, a chromogenic b/w film. A first experiance in C41 color developer slightly pushed turned out very good at EI 1600, and I wanted to try Caffenol. I'm not a big fan of color film developed in b/w developer, but this BW400CN developed in Caffenol-C-L is as good as developed in color developer. No doubt. This film is ideal for high speed purposes and hybrid workflow. You can push this film a lot and still don't get to much contrast, for the sample image attached here I even had to enhance the contrast in pp. Grain is still very small, almost unvisible with my Canoscan 8800F. The look is very different from other films, probably ideal for taming highest contrasts. The orange mask is very transparent and the base fog very low.</div>
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So here's a sample, no masterpiece for sure, but showing the character of the film under very low light conditions at EI 1600, simple average metering with my trusty Canon A1. Developed in Caffenol-C-L semi stand with 0.5 g/l pot bromide, 20 °C, 70 minutes, fixed in regular bw fixer, increased contrast (s-curve) in Gimp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1SHnu-wdcoTyVztFMIrJ9_N9xaXqQFcHyBwFay1qkHtyV_OYxGwjD4T8dB7w2s8_8tzU82SourRKhmW_ESQNLpULRx5FNlLP2ZzLqri2G_OacS5cRMIRa_nzCLZvhUmMWMhcn4b1uQyc/s1600/s-bw400cn-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1SHnu-wdcoTyVztFMIrJ9_N9xaXqQFcHyBwFay1qkHtyV_OYxGwjD4T8dB7w2s8_8tzU82SourRKhmW_ESQNLpULRx5FNlLP2ZzLqri2G_OacS5cRMIRa_nzCLZvhUmMWMhcn4b1uQyc/s640/s-bw400cn-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Best - Reinhold imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-77720001540669104582012-11-26T10:02:00.000+01:002012-11-26T10:08:45.941+01:00The Caffenol Cookbook and Bible<div style="text-align: justify;">
.... is a project surely worth not only an entry in the link list but also an extra posting. And no, the book is not sold for money to make us rich, it's available for everyone online and totally free by Community Spirit Publications. Made by nine well known Caffenol cooks under the project leadership of the fabulous large format photographer Bo Sibbern-Larsen. I'm very proud to be part of this project. See a bunch of fine Caffenol developed pictures and get lots of infos about this marvellous developer. There are still some minor imperfections of the web design, but really enjoyable to look and read. So here I proudly present:</div>
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<a href="http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/" target="_blank">http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/</a></div>
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Thank you very much for your enthusiasm and patience, Bo.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0d8p653PlWLVudZIE3rfpylOUw3j_mC3GZROmGd3GqjupUCI8xJElGx8020Dhi_Ewtp267twuzKSko_CL6S27eWDEs9q8JCPEyKEQWbhjLk5xNE3SQDqfoCKSWjA4lUndQXhXfdlnyjA/s1600/cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0d8p653PlWLVudZIE3rfpylOUw3j_mC3GZROmGd3GqjupUCI8xJElGx8020Dhi_Ewtp267twuzKSko_CL6S27eWDEs9q8JCPEyKEQWbhjLk5xNE3SQDqfoCKSWjA4lUndQXhXfdlnyjA/s640/cover.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-57260772565644532972012-10-06T08:47:00.002+02:002012-10-06T08:53:51.224+02:00Caffenol-C-F and Cardinal<div style="text-align: justify;">
After a few more results with Caffenol-C-F I have to state that compared with my other Caffenol receipes this is a weak developer giving thinner negatives. It has less Vit-C and the sulfite is also slowing down the development. So for boxspeed you might need about 20 minutes development time, Also less sulfite may be good for better film speed, maybe 30 or 40 g/l. You can play with the amount of sulfite without any other change, but you probably have to adjust the dev time. We see exactly the same behaviour as with regular fine grain developers, smaller grain -> less speed. But together with Rodinal/Parodinal we get a developer on steroids, still producing acceptable fine grain. And still we need more experiances with Caffenol-C-F and the Cardinal developer.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
And no, there won't be a pope developer. The original latin "cardinalis" has nothing to do with katholizism, nor do I.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
TMax 400 @ 800, Cardinal developer 12 minutes, 20 °C, regular agitation. The Tmax 400 was difficult in Caffenol-C, a lot of fog and rather large grain. Now we have reasonable fine grain, no fog and speeds up to 3200.</div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSfYA1oO6mK_BmQN4Cdgha2Zl_pmaFRAd9JuN5xLx_RhRxYpMKB-RcVERtRms74sIWuS07ITLpY7uGFZEmRo0JZGvZt-169Ef5LHD16toa7FKgI8_hoQljd81H_0Tz0Kt7VQQrKpSCd0U/s1600/s-2_011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSfYA1oO6mK_BmQN4Cdgha2Zl_pmaFRAd9JuN5xLx_RhRxYpMKB-RcVERtRms74sIWuS07ITLpY7uGFZEmRo0JZGvZt-169Ef5LHD16toa7FKgI8_hoQljd81H_0Tz0Kt7VQQrKpSCd0U/s320/s-2_011.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
Best - Reinholdimagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-3569521965297128392012-08-15T00:37:00.000+02:002017-02-28T19:40:21.468+01:00New recipes<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi guys, something new after a long time. I had lots of fun with
Caffenol-C developers in the past and wanted to try something new for
me.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Caffenol-C and it's many variants are not real fine
grain developers, although Caffenol-C-L is better than most others in
this regard. Many commercial fine grain developers use sodium sulfite as
a silver solvent agent, making grain smaller in high concentrations. One
of the most famous for sure is D-76, containing 100 g/l sulfite in the
stock solution. Lower amounts are used as a preservative. For another
purpose it is used in waterbeds, it's sold here sometimes as "bubble
ex". And that's how I got it from a waterbed supplier, 400 g for 4,60
Euro, shipping included. Not a big venture ;-)</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Another
thing was adding Rodinal to a Caffenol-C, using a third developing agent
for synergistic work and hopefully better film speed. It already
worked, but grain was pretty big. Could sulfite be the solution? And
could homebrewed Parodinal from Paracetamol painkiller pills substitute
the Rodinal? Will we get the desired film speed? Will we get reasonable
fine grain? The target is at least EI 1600 from an ISO 400 film, more is
better, and grain should be much smaller than with a Delta 3200 for
example. That's a great film, speed and shadow details are splendid in many
developers, but very expensive and grain is pretty huge for 35 mm film.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So here's the new <b>Caffenol-C-F</b> recipe, <b>F</b> means <b>f</b>ine grain:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
washing soda waterfree 17 g/l</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Vit-C 4 g/l</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
sodium sulfite aka "bubble ex" 50 g/l</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
instant coffee 40 g/l</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
pot. bromide 1 g/l</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Together with Rodinal 20 ml/l = 1:50 it worked perfect, so I brewed <b>Parodinal</b> according to Donald Qualls recipe:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#Parodinal</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
250 ml water</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
30 tablets @ 500 mg Acetaminophen (Paracetamol, Tylenol)</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
sodium sulfite, anhydrous, 50 g</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
sodium hydroxide 20 g</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Again the sulfite was the "bubble ex" and the hydroxide was "drain free" or "Rohrfrei" in german. If there should be small aluminium chips in there, remove them with a plier.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b style="background-color: white;">Use protective gloves and glasses. Never pour water over the hydroxide, give small amounts of hydroxide into the water at the time. Cool the mug in cool water while diluting the hydroxide. Be careful! Stay away if any doubts!!!</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I let stand the fresh Parodinal for 3 days, then I use it. See how it worked.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The <b>Cardinal</b> developer - Caffenol-C-F with Parodinal 20 ml/l </span><br />
<br />
This is a completely homebrewed developer.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The first one is HP5+ as 35 mm film at EI 3200 in Caffenol-C-F with Parodinal 20 ml/l developer, I call it the <b>Cardinal</b> developer.</div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHKVvF4ArvQGoND2x-4eIZgXq5w2dA-8Tn-w73ThnoBRVm24hZQkshlhmLRFg4qXXak39CgQLGelaZ1u69EJ7B5Yjb_Nfmok1pEcVPw5iKW2l3YiIFF5H-AGJtPrJZZtORS8ITa5VZ0aY/s1600/s-33a-min.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHKVvF4ArvQGoND2x-4eIZgXq5w2dA-8Tn-w73ThnoBRVm24hZQkshlhmLRFg4qXXak39CgQLGelaZ1u69EJ7B5Yjb_Nfmok1pEcVPw5iKW2l3YiIFF5H-AGJtPrJZZtORS8ITa5VZ0aY/s320/s-33a-min.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So the grain is razor sharp and small, scanned with a high resolving Minolta Scan Dual II. Some brightening was necessary in postprocessing, but nothing too dramatic.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now I tried the TMax 400, 35 mm film, in <b>Cardinal </b>developer. The film was a delicate candidate in Caffenol so far, lots of fog and quite ugly grain at high speed. So again the TMax400 was exposed at EI 3200, developed 15 minutes @ 22 °C in Cardinal, agitation first minute constantly, then 3x every 2 minutes. </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipYlbg-frcr51_vimZ4z_HHb5dpszKbdGvGEllcESDJt1sXQJ2AlAm1lm5sccU_j-Ow2h9CCDNlGZ36sEugw26IkL7-CbgIHfqcUeyMn2nqWzKdf-5kb7CXIR6RXhyQ_qe0opzwd_C80Q/s1600/s-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipYlbg-frcr51_vimZ4z_HHb5dpszKbdGvGEllcESDJt1sXQJ2AlAm1lm5sccU_j-Ow2h9CCDNlGZ36sEugw26IkL7-CbgIHfqcUeyMn2nqWzKdf-5kb7CXIR6RXhyQ_qe0opzwd_C80Q/s320/s-06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Shot in bright sunlight with a Minolta Dynax (Maxxum) 700si with battery grip shutter speed of 1/4000 and a stopped down tele lens, the neg is really contrasty and reminds of a transparency. How I love the look! The 35 mm film was scanned with the reliable Canoscan 8800F, needing some unsharp masking in postprocessing but with better tones and I love the result. The Tmax400 shows almost no fog, very, very small grain for EI 3200 and - of course - a bit compressed tones. For better shadow detail and easier silver prints you should restrict the exposure to EI 1600 and are rewarded with splendid tones, very fine grain and exquisite sharpness at EI 1600 - I'm glowing! Let's hope that Kodak will survive.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br /><div style="text-align: justify;">
Finally I have to give credits - huge credits: </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- Dr. Scott A. Williams and his 1995 technical photography class at the R.I.T. - the Caffenol pioneers!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- Donald Qualls and his omnipresence in the universe of homebrewed developers</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- Steve Anchell for his great "darkroom cookbook"</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- all the guys at "The new Caffenol home" group at flickr for their constant help, encouragement and inspiration</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- and the many mostly unnamed friends in the www like Rob, Mike "the englishman in France", Larry, Henrique, Dirk, another Dirk, Gerald, Jon, Khoa, Adrian, Volker, Micha, Berthold ..... just to name a very few by their first names, they will know.......</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Thank you very much! </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Best - Reinhold </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-71035307121440054782012-04-26T12:50:00.002+02:002012-04-26T12:57:15.520+02:00Fixer 2 - errare humanum est<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi folks,</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I stated before that salt will not fix photographic film, but I was wrong. Yes, I tested it and it didn't work, but under special circumstances you can use kitchen salt as a fixer. So how to?</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
You must use a highly concentrated solution of table salt of about 300 g/l. That's a lot! That's really a lot!!! Maximum solubility is 359 g/l, so the suggested solution is almost saturated and the diluting process takes some time and/or a lot of stirring. Furthermore the fixing takes a lot of time, after about 24 hours the exposed at room light but undeveloped little piece of APX100 was clear. Since fixing time is said to have to be doubble of the clearing time, expect a total fixing time of 2 days! Rising the temperature to 30 or 40 °C will shorten the time to a couple of hours, but I don't want to "cook" my bw-films.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The perfect clear snippet of the film then was developed and no blackening at all occured, indicating that no silver halide was hold back in the emulsion. I developed with Caffenol-C-M and the film snippet got a remarkable brown tint. I noticed before that some films have a stronger brown tint if they are developed with salt as a restrainer, of course with much less salt. But of course usually the negs are first developed and then fixed, so I expect no problems.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I tried regular non-iodized table salt and iodized table salt, both work about the same. Both contain a small amount of anti-caking agent: E 535 aka hexacyanoferrat(II). Since the amount is very small - max. 20 mg/kg - I don't think it has an influence. But never say never again, hahaha.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So it's good to know that there is an alternative to thiosulphate based fixers. Be it if you live abroad or can't get regular fixer for what reason ever or simply because you like it, it's good to know. I will continue fixing with the regular one because it only takes a few minutes, but NEVER SAY NEVER AGAIN. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
All these insights I owe Sir Henrique the "Cronocrator" and his fine blog: <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.de/">http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.de/</a> and the corresponding discussion in "the new Caffenol home" group at flickr. Thank you very much, guys.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Some questions are left, f.e. we have no explanation why it works and how other films behave, especially films like TMax or Delta. So before using this method you should make own trials with the film and salt you use before you ruin important negs. It's simple. Cut a small piece from the leader of 35 mm film, put it in a solution of 300 g/l salt, wait and see. Should be done in a simple glass mug.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now after so much salt I urgently need a COFFEE!!!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Best - Reinhold</div>imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-14141320989845186992012-04-12T18:11:00.000+02:002012-04-26T15:20:06.719+02:00Fixer<div style="text-align: justify;">
There's absolutely no way to invent an environmental safe fixer. No way at all! Problem are the unused and removed silver salts from the emulsion, they come from the film and they are toxic for micro organisms. If you don't remove these salts, you do not fix! The commonly used thiosulphates (hypo) alone are of very, very low toxicity, the silver ions are the problem.<br />
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Kitchen salt doesn't work at all as a fixer, beleave me, I tested it. And I don't know of any reliable source that can confirm kitchen salt works as a fixer with modern films. And even if it should work (again, it doesn't!) still you would have to dispose the used fixer environmentally safe!!!<br />
<br />
So use your regular fixer without bad consious. A "bio"-fix does NOT and can NOT exist. Proper disposal and re-using the toxic and expensive silver is the only way that makes sense, for us AND the environment.<br />
<br />
I'm really getting tired answering this question: salt does NOT work as a fixer. No matter how often it is claimed. This is a myth coming from the 19th century!!!<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: #ffe599;">Important update, see next post: Fixer 2. I don't delete this post, it's part of my own Caffenol history.</span></div>imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-999509075528860522012-04-09T06:56:00.001+02:002012-04-09T06:58:26.958+02:00My new photo blog<div style="text-align: justify;">
No recent posts, what's happening with the Caffenol blog? </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Most secrets about coffee based bw film development are no secrets any more. Also the flickr Caffenol group is rather quiet now, people are very successful all over the world with Caffenol and they create awesome pictures. My recipes have become a kind of worldwide standard, if anyone wants a standard at all. In the very first line I did this all for myself and got the most reliable developer I can think of.. Always fresh, never again think about shelf live, non-toxic and environmental safe, pleeeeasing results, what more can you ask for?</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
You could add all the well known agents from conventional developers like sulphites to get a real fine grain developer or experiment with other additives. But that's not my cup of "tea" anymore. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So, this blog will stay alive as long as Google will let it live. Every once in a while I will come back here and maybe post something or not.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I started a new blog and anyone is invited to have look. I will post pictures from the past and recent ones. Digitally captured or film based. BW, monochrome or colour, frugal images hopefully:</div>
<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
<a href="http://imagesfrugales.blogspot.com/">Imagesfrugales</a></h2>
Best wishes for everybody - Reinhold<br />
<br />
Here's a pic on long expired Efke KB 25, exposure index 40, developed in Caffenol-C-L with 0.5 g/l KBr, 45 minutes semi-stand at 20 °C. Very dense highlights, should have been developed at less time. Digitally split toned with Gimp.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBXZKAD4ck_7kgB0Elb6rKPF2mQZK-MwNh76-I-41UjIQt2BEsApdKveWwJAh4lxLIhKlS9qhp4z3DUROtZcjKmgI0UaG6MQAgsnvNeFUsvc-GFe0VEC9qYkU6WDEUJzsQBGG-4HDPS2I/s1600/70-2-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBXZKAD4ck_7kgB0Elb6rKPF2mQZK-MwNh76-I-41UjIQt2BEsApdKveWwJAh4lxLIhKlS9qhp4z3DUROtZcjKmgI0UaG6MQAgsnvNeFUsvc-GFe0VEC9qYkU6WDEUJzsQBGG-4HDPS2I/s320/70-2-s.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Time for a huge english style breakfirst and a delicious cup of coffee - italian style of course. </h3>
<br />imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-79918197232910487022012-02-12T12:50:00.001+01:002012-02-12T12:59:32.076+01:00Efke 25 - Caffenol-C-L<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhYT39PFJ-hQweMn7S9qDJ2ZnJZSPmgaw6jTcU78xnpFuN9Cj-Nt3h3emK_DLxeTUik4ZBxMhADnuvULP4aW18iktzfg3hRl8vXuPcwl56W719x9u_C1vJcdq-aHahyqC7cs5JERdSmU/s1600/web-Film2-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhYT39PFJ-hQweMn7S9qDJ2ZnJZSPmgaw6jTcU78xnpFuN9Cj-Nt3h3emK_DLxeTUik4ZBxMhADnuvULP4aW18iktzfg3hRl8vXuPcwl56W719x9u_C1vJcdq-aHahyqC7cs5JERdSmU/s320/web-Film2-03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was waiting for a large format contri, but it didn't arrive. So here we go with another story. The Efke R 25 was exposed with EI 50. Caffenol-C-L with 6 g/l iodized salt, agitation 1st minute continuously, let stand for 60 minutes. No prewash. Lot of uneven development, this one is the best and shows the potential. Maybe prewash and some more agitation will help, also some pot bromide. Almost no grain, beautiful tones, 6x6 neg here. The Efke is a rude film, curls like hell and attracts dust like a vacuum cleaner, the film base is like an optical fiber. I hate PET film base. As the wet emulsion is very scratch sensitiv I didn't wipe the film before drying. Result: littered with small white drying marks and dust, dust, dust...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Tones are nice, but what a pain in the a.. the darkroom and scanning handling is.</div>imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-335654725430075522012-01-01T11:19:00.000+01:002012-01-01T11:19:29.273+01:00happy new yearI wish everybody a happy new year 2012 filled with love and peace<br />
<br />
Reinhold<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8TW0ujLLzw/TwAy1y9289I/AAAAAAAAASk/sjHynDyb_50/s1600/Neujahr2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8TW0ujLLzw/TwAy1y9289I/AAAAAAAAASk/sjHynDyb_50/s640/Neujahr2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">HP5+, Caffenol-C-L</div>imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-22945591215167078912011-11-05T00:43:00.000+01:002011-11-05T00:43:47.611+01:00200000.... clicks in about 1.5 years. Time for a little celebration and - above all - to give credit to everyone who encouraged and supported me or contributed with her/his knowledge here or elsewhere. Also the film donations I received were extremely helpful, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-8cuqeNwr5XaqM0rBvMp6TloSuFyV9bai2vBszyNNFCWC7FS03n6jUUinf_Dto8VoSOxJz6LSBN7d7kR0g9Rvq_p1QaY1ypY12oTzeVDgtnOJW8I3S0_aRcCskIyCAt_VSVBWBTSeSQ/s1600/web_scan18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-8cuqeNwr5XaqM0rBvMp6TloSuFyV9bai2vBszyNNFCWC7FS03n6jUUinf_Dto8VoSOxJz6LSBN7d7kR0g9Rvq_p1QaY1ypY12oTzeVDgtnOJW8I3S0_aRcCskIyCAt_VSVBWBTSeSQ/s400/web_scan18.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>White rose shot with 3.5/50 Canon FD macro lens, illuminated with a 40 watt clamp lamp, exposed on long expired Kodak Technical Pan, stand devloped for only 12 minutes in Caffenol-C-L with 0.1 g/l pot. bromide at 20 °C, gentle agitation 1st minute cont., then let stand. <br />
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Cheers - Reinholdimagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-12080489927382635692011-10-19T02:57:00.003+02:002011-11-03T08:41:01.712+01:00first exhibition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyoSS6XcjibtdSiT0HORhWCs-5p9FRj_KPINXJoKq4mF063XnINn3jzHymL6rGnL5WsDcjV8o4eKNBNM0Ne6A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>Since last sunday, more than 30 of my pictures, mostly portraits of musicians, are exposed in the Jazzhaus Heidelberg. Most of them are shot on film that was developed with one of my Caffenol variants. Thank you Peter Antony for capturing this kind of "interview" :-) and sorry for the typo.imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-40560681326901519212011-09-18T15:41:00.001+02:002011-09-18T15:47:57.881+02:00microfilm or high res low speed filmTo be honest these are my first experiances with this kind of films. Resolutions of about 600 - 800 linepairs/millimeter at 1:1000 contrast and a gamma of about 3 in their typical applications are the benchmarks. For regular photography they need to be developed very compensating, often used are special developers. But also high diluted Rodinal can be used, f.e. 1:100 and a very short dev time below 10 minutes.<br />
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I was given a big box of long time expired films like Kodak Technical Pan, Kodak Imagelink, Agfa Ortho etc. in 35mm format and the first result with Technical Pan in Rodinal was very promising.for the second try I used Caffenol-C-L and it came out even better. 15 minutes with regular agitation (initially 10 times, then 3 times every minute) at 20 °C and with 0.4 g/l pot bromide, because I read that streaks are a common problem with this kind of films. I exposed at EI 50, but 25 or so maybe would have been better, but I need more data for this rating. As the negs were slightly underexposed, I had to brighten the images a bit in postprocessing, but not too much.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxAiDg1lIy3bLYtQ0CWyXN7lyXADyzZqopof2RmbVzOjEofJxLr0hJZoG9hSqs1oPLs1mq5wNyXN1R482w_bhi2EMmrzMK8kKDMlamv4zVqh3CP9xkWnq2RrBWPFnzTn3naAhC5NRAZk/s1600/web_bild40_bea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxAiDg1lIy3bLYtQ0CWyXN7lyXADyzZqopof2RmbVzOjEofJxLr0hJZoG9hSqs1oPLs1mq5wNyXN1R482w_bhi2EMmrzMK8kKDMlamv4zVqh3CP9xkWnq2RrBWPFnzTn3naAhC5NRAZk/s320/web_bild40_bea.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I am very pleased with the results, no fog at all, perfect even development, crystal clear transparent base. The TechPan with the panchromatic sensitation (up to 700 nm) has a nice tonal rendering, the grain is invisible and not resolvable with my scanner, sharpness is extraordinary. A pity this film is not available from new production. Despite of strong backlight no tonal rendering probs and no halation effect at all, the tiny cables are resolved perfectly against the bright sky even in the distance. That's really something!<br />
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If you want to go into high resolution film based photography I recommend that you try Agfa Copex Rapid, that is made by Agfa-Gevaert in Belgium. Drawback is the PET filmbase, so the film must be loaded/unloaded in almost complete darkness. The ESTAR base of TechPan is easy to handle besides a strong ugly curl.<br />
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Inportant note: I found that using demineralized water is necessary for the developer and the final rinse and I very gently wipe the wet film, otherwise I get masses of small dots on the film. Treated as described here and the dots are gone completely.<br />
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Cheers - Reinholdimagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-78429399704615614922011-08-25T04:46:00.006+02:002011-08-25T05:48:45.940+02:00it's so easy<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGmfUlxNs5gM1jNE1su3y5V7jRrP9-03HdSuWn2J_fHmu4JHtlBqxE4nthX6Tb_8TsvmJA4xHbyVAhLaybmvP4e_wGfdgXY67CcpqFVZhXoWQvaNosqfXfTsunkyaXpeLnEXEVntHWy6o/s1600/acros-100.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGmfUlxNs5gM1jNE1su3y5V7jRrP9-03HdSuWn2J_fHmu4JHtlBqxE4nthX6Tb_8TsvmJA4xHbyVAhLaybmvP4e_wGfdgXY67CcpqFVZhXoWQvaNosqfXfTsunkyaXpeLnEXEVntHWy6o/s200/acros-100.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5644631060132281458" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYyN7aBVStN5XsEHaQXbRjPccutmjL5LTiL5ndMY9NWjRj_P0hIhQevIjkAN2uslr73k8EDqdzpktUvTpOXz8vjTaAjzCAAS0QE3fY4lDfeRYnnWQxEfk8ieq0JwFEFOrr0cimZ-jaZQc/s1600/tri-x-400.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYyN7aBVStN5XsEHaQXbRjPccutmjL5LTiL5ndMY9NWjRj_P0hIhQevIjkAN2uslr73k8EDqdzpktUvTpOXz8vjTaAjzCAAS0QE3fY4lDfeRYnnWQxEfk8ieq0JwFEFOrr0cimZ-jaZQc/s200/tri-x-400.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5644631062250828178" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEAcePT0Lr0VDOS9EP8DRToF4SXVRQlH3i379M3G3leeGWsw6vy-7xbrwIKkskykYmZNceLXNXGMax29K31lifKSirc-FpDgWjAgkk1e9Yu_3j51xccdPW1Cb59sBt8R9DwYuq1z9D4go/s1600/tri-x-1600.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEAcePT0Lr0VDOS9EP8DRToF4SXVRQlH3i379M3G3leeGWsw6vy-7xbrwIKkskykYmZNceLXNXGMax29K31lifKSirc-FpDgWjAgkk1e9Yu_3j51xccdPW1Cb59sBt8R9DwYuq1z9D4go/s200/tri-x-1600.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5644631067305405138" border="0" /></a>
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<br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Hello coffeeholics,
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<br />some new interesting facts from the still growing worldwide community using coffee as a main agent for b/w-film development. I was never really satisfied with TriX in Caffenol, but when I saw the fine results of Thomas I had to think over my estimations. Secondly his system for developing at boxspeed and a 2 stop push with Caffenol-C-L is simply brilliant. You mustn't tweak your developer depending on the used film brand or desired speed, simply adjust the dev time. He did it with great results and many different films at different speeds and temperatures and his method is incredibly easy. Let's read what he wrote:
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<br /></div><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">i did develop my b&w films for quite some time using highly diluted rodinal and stand development and was very happy with the results and especially also with the uncomplicated way of doing it: one developer for normal and push development, no tweaking for film type or room temperature. the only problem i got was uneven development, especially in medium format. as i was not able to solve this problem i looked around and at that time - about a year ago - i read about your stand- and semi-stand development experiences with caffenol and gave it a try. i wanted to try this strange idea of developing films anyway. i just followed your caffenol c-l recipe and it worked perfectly for me (prewash for 5min, agitating 30sec at the beginning and then 3 times at 2, 4, 10 and 40 minutes and dumping the develper at 70min). the results were amazing and had much of what i liked about the rodinal stand development. at some point i also wanted to be able to use the films not pushed at box-speed and tried to reduce the development time to get there. after some experiments i ended up with 5min prewash, 30sec agitation at the beginning and then 3 times at 1, 5 and 15 minutes and dumping the developer at 30min.
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<br /></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">these two strategies for developing film at box speed or with a two stop push i'm using since and it always worked. and that at temperatures from 20-25 degrees celsius and films varying from acros (100+400), agfa apx 100 (100+400), kodak tri-x (400+1600), tmx (100+400), tmy (400+1600), ilford fp4+ (100+400) and some others (the numbers in brackets are the filmspeed i used the films at). the results were always very good. to see some images developed that way, you may have a look at my <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/meerberlin/">flickr stream
<br /></a></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/meerberlin/"> </a></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">vielen dank und liebe gruesse
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<br />t </p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">---------------------------------------------------
<br /></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">Thank you very much, Thomas, for these easy to follow instructions. I have no doubt a similar procedure would work f.e. with Caffenol-C-M, maybe 7 or 8 minutes for boxspeed and 15 minutes for a push +2 development and regular agitation.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm">Cheers - Reinhold
<br /></p> imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1038963912631739676.post-7106110217948600732011-07-12T04:37:00.011+02:002011-07-12T06:01:41.760+02:00Rollei Retro 80s again<div style="text-align: justify;">Hi everybody,<br /><br />the Rollei Retro 80s, that in fact is an aerial film from Agfa-Gevaert/Belgium, I used it <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.com/2010/08/rollei-retro-80s-caffenol-c-l.html">once before</a> and the film shows extraordinary sharpness and finest grain together with an unusual tonal range. The 80s is extended sensitized for the near IR-range, not as much as the Efke, but still shows the typical IR effect. I supposed that optimal results would be achieved if an EI of 50 - 100 will be used at about 40 - 50 minutes stand development and it seems to be the sweet spot for this film. Gerald already has shown beautiful infrared pictures with this film on flickr, and Yannick uses a slightly different setup with a IR-filter that probably is not as strong as Geralds, and also does fine regular, non-IR photography with this film. It's a matter of taste, but I prefer the decent wood effect over the one from the Efke. The latter may look a bit overdone, the 80s has a more "natural" look imho.<br /><br />Also non-IR photography works beautiful with the 80s, due to it's sensitization it's predestined for landscapes, but also portraiture works very nice and eases some skin irritations due to the low blue sensitivity. So this film behaves quite contrary to an orthopanchromatic film. A great film for many purposes and with a unique look. But now let's read and see what Yannick did with<br />this film. Thank you very much for your contribution, Yannick. Cheers - Reinhold<br /><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39oQDAa8ho-U4eFVdUVMsvBc72kBC3JzqtCsAUbUvNlDI26HZoiLdL07C9RoIWwaj69jMebC3aLTyVU0S6xEpUHCeJycCsuzELRFzpT7sEFEmmaNcYUmw7n9EZn956tcXTi2akyPHNf0/s1600/yannick1.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39oQDAa8ho-U4eFVdUVMsvBc72kBC3JzqtCsAUbUvNlDI26HZoiLdL07C9RoIWwaj69jMebC3aLTyVU0S6xEpUHCeJycCsuzELRFzpT7sEFEmmaNcYUmw7n9EZn956tcXTi2akyPHNf0/s320/yannick1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5628298850064563810" border="0" /></a>"Thanks to Gerald Figal, met on Flickr, I decided to use Rollei Eetro 80s film as he did, with an infrared filter and then developed in Caffenol-C-L. For this try, I wanted to use a twin lens reflex in order to see exactly what I wanted to photograph. I used a Rolleiflex old standard from the mid thirties because I had a push on infrared filter made by Agfa for Rollei in the thirties to.<br /><br />I shot with the IR filter during a sunny day, at f/16 and 1 sec exposure (actually near 2s because the shutter is a bit tired). It means that the film was exposed for 3 iso. On the same roll, I exposed the RR80S without filter at 80 iso. The sniper was shot at f/8 and 1/5 sec, camera on a table. I stand developed the film as Gerald did, in Caffenol-C-L, at 20°c for 50 minutes.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVGTeyM3dWUAY5Ht1iSADEVBZUvXKqA7PKtn9N_GXCmzCP0vY9XbRnV2mDiSLmgPF3t8seIPw3MukHTv0QPIOX3xuxUKRMDJ6_izglzRZ8EUFuV3dXoc5-P51Hd7WtGp9djxreoCDDxg/s1600/yannick2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVGTeyM3dWUAY5Ht1iSADEVBZUvXKqA7PKtn9N_GXCmzCP0vY9XbRnV2mDiSLmgPF3t8seIPw3MukHTv0QPIOX3xuxUKRMDJ6_izglzRZ8EUFuV3dXoc5-P51Hd7WtGp9djxreoCDDxg/s320/yannick2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5628298848430138034" border="0" /></a>Washing soda"Phoenix" (not waterfree!) : 20 g<br /></div> Vitamine C : 6 g<br />KBr : 0,6 g<br />Instant coffee Granarom (Lidl market) : 24 g<br /><br />Kind regards from Troyes/France.<br /><br />Yannick"<br /><br /><br /><br />Note: Yannick uses a hydrated washing soda. He determined the water content and recalculated the needed amount. So it's a standard Caffenol-C-L recipe with 1 g/l pot. bromide. If you want to use iodized salt I suggest starting with 10 g/l (Reinhold)imagesfrugaleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16601551090153453277noreply@blogger.com4